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How to stop tear-out when cutting plywood on a CNC

The short answer: tear-out comes from a dull or wrong bit, a feed rate that does not match the bit, and plywood that is not held down or not supported at the bottom. Switch to a sharp compression bit, check your feed, hold the sheet flat and cut slightly into the spoilboard.

An up-cut bit lifts the top veneer along the cut; a compression bit leaves both faces cleanUp-cut bitCompression bitLifts the top veneerClean on both faces
An up-cut bit can lift the top veneer along the cut. A compression bit leaves both faces clean.

What tear-out looks like

Splinters along the cut edge, chipped veneer on the top or the bottom face, and fuzzy fibres that stand up from the edge. It is most visible on the face veneer, where a bare edge or a clear finish will show it.

The usual causes

How to fix it

  1. Put in a new, sharp 1/4" compression bit and run a short test cut. Read which bit to use.
  2. Set the final depth about 0.5 mm (0.02") into the spoilboard so the bottom veneer is cut through fully.
  3. Cut in two passes on the outside of each part: a roughing pass that leaves about 0.5 to 1 mm (0.02" to 0.04") and a light finishing pass.
  4. Cut small inside features first, then the outside of the part, so the sheet stays held while the details are cut.
  5. If a stubborn face still chips, apply painter's tape along the cut line before cutting, or score the line with a shallow first pass.

Cleaning up what is left

Light fuzz is normal and sands off in a few seconds with 120 to 180 grit paper. Do not sand parts that need to fit: sanding changes the thickness and the joint. Run a fit test first if you are not sure.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my plywood chip on the top face?

Usually an up-cut bit is lifting the veneer, or the bit is dull. Use a sharp compression or down-cut bit and check the feed rate.

How do I stop chipping on the bottom face?

Use a compression bit and cut about 0.5 mm (0.02") into the spoilboard so the bottom veneer is cut through fully.

Can I sand away the fuzz?

Yes, light fuzz sands off with 120 to 180 grit paper. Do not sand the faces of joints that have to fit.

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